The Story of the Busserull

– from Work Shirt to Party Wear

It’s been on the catwalk since the Middle Ages. A garment equally at home in the forest or at sea. Now celebrities and artists are wearing it too. But what exactly is a busserull?

Busserull, bussarong, bussarå, sailor’s shirt – this humble piece of clothing has many names. Its origins trace back to medieval Norway (1066–1130), and the word likely comes from the French bourgeron or Low German busserun, both meaning a shapeless work shirt. The Latin word bourre also suggests the coarse wool fabric used in its early forms. But it’s the design that defines a true busserull: no darts, no fancy seams or collars. Just a few overlapping front panels and a back buckle.

Norwegian settlers: The first Norwegian emigrants left for the USA 200 years ago. Many had a bunad in their travel chest and wore a busserull.

A Long Life – and Zero Waste

The busserull predates the tailoring shears, and its pattern pieces are all rectangles. Textiles were costly, often hand-woven or traded locally, and nothing went to waste. Today, we’d call this a "zero waste" approach and embrace a sustainable lifestyle. But its lightweight stripes also carry a heavy legacy - woven with sweat, tears, and even blood.

From Revolution to Respectability

The busserull has served in labor, war, and protest. During the French revolutions of 1830 and 1848, it became the uniform of the working class. In 1970s Norway, academics adopted it in solidarity with the laborers - an earthy, practical shirt that made a quiet political statement.

Square thinking: The busserull is made of simple geometric pieces, with minimal cutting and waste.

The Ministerial Busserull

In 1991, a special “Ministerial Busserull” was introduced in Norway. Every year, each cabinet minister received a new one. Wearing it symbolized unity, shared history, and the ability to get your hands dirty. The tradition ended in 2002, but these shirts are still available to the public - no title required.

A Deep Archive

The Norwegian Forest Museum in Elverum houses an archive of 400 busserulls. The oldest dates to the 1700s and was found stuffed in a doorframe as insulation. Many are patched or remade into other garments, showing both the durability of the fabric and the frugality of past generations. Today, Grinaker Vev is the only Norwegian producer still weaving and sewing busserulls from scratch.

Timeless stripes: The oldest woven pattern in textile history. Traditional busserull fabric features a repeating sequence: four blue, two black, four white, two black threads.

Threads Across the Ocean

Thanks to Norwegian entrepreneur Ingvill Kaasin Montgomery, busserulls are also available in the U.S. through Hovden Wear in Portland. Today, Elizabeth Moorhead runs the store. For those wanting to make their own, Carol Colburn is a go-to expert in both busserull history and sewing techniques.

As interest in sustainable clothing grows, this timeless shirt seems ready for a revival. In Norway, it’s increasingly popular among artists, musicians, and creatives. A shirt with centuries of history – and a name that still rings true: Busserull.

And if you can read Norwegian, please read more about the busserull HERE.

Even more stories about the shirt and the connection between Norway and America. Please listen to this Norwegian POD

Forward-facing: The busserull continues its journey through generations—and it’s not slowing down.